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Siu Chen

The woman at the stove

She opened the shop in July 2020, at seventy‑five, in the middle of a pandemic. She is eighty‑one now, and she is still the one at the range when the pots go on.

Siu Chen in a red apron, ladling sambal hijau from a wok into a steel pan, steam rising around her
A Thursday morning, September 2026. Ladling the Sambal Hijau into the pan it will sit in all day.

01

It started as cooking for friends.

Siu Chen cooked for her church community out of her own kitchen first. People asked for more than she could make, and word moved through the Indonesian community in the San Gabriel Valley the way it always does — one family telling another.

Then the pandemic closed the gatherings she had been cooking for. Most people would have taken that as the end of it. In July 2020, at seventy‑five, she signed a lease on Valley Boulevard instead and opened a shop that was part kitchen, part deli case and part grocery aisle.

“I really love cooking, when everyone brings their friends and eats my food, and they love my food, I love that.”

Siu Chen, speaking to Foodbeast, July 2021

02

Five years apart.

The same person, the same shop, half a decade between the two photographs. Very little else has changed.

Siu Chen standing outside Medan Kitchen, beside the window decal of the shop’s logo

Then

Outside the shop, in front of the logo drawn in her likeness. The grandmother on the sign is Siu Chen — that was never an accident.

Siu Chen at the range, lifting a full pan of sayur with both hands

Now

Eighty‑one, and still lifting the pan herself. The shop is open four days a week and she is there for all four of them.

03

“Almost thirty different kinds of dishes.”

That was her own estimate, given to Foodbeast in 2021 — that in a single day she could make almost thirty different kinds of dishes, mains and sides. It sounded like a boast at the time.

The photograph beside this is one morning’s work, laid out on the counter before the doors open: Bubur Cirebon, Nasi Kapau and Nasi Padang, Bakso Campur, Bihun Goreng Seafood, Sate Ayam with peanut sauce, Sambal Belacan, Sambal Hijau Pete, and Bubur Madura for afterwards. Count the containers. She was not exaggerating.

Everything is cooked that morning and sold until it runs out. Nothing is held over to the next day.

See what is in the case
Around sixteen packed takeout containers laid out in a grid on the counter: Nasi Kapau and Nasi Padang, a whole fried fish, Bakso Campur in its broth, Bihun Goreng Seafood, Sate Ayam, two sambals and Bubur Madura
One morning’s cooking, on the counter before opening.

04

It all starts hours before the door opens.

Four burners, and everything on them has to be finished by half‑past ten.

Four pots on the range: a steamer of Nasi Uduk, Sayur Lodeh, Sayur Nangka, and a wide wok of Nasi Kuning part-cooked with lemongrass and pandan
Nasi Uduk in the steamer, Sayur Lodeh, Sayur Nangka, partially cooking the Nasi Kuning with lemongrass and pandan still in it.
Two wide woks side by side, Sambal Hijau in one and Beef Rendang in the other, steam coming off both
Sambal Hijau and shimmering Beef Rendang.

05

Ten twenty-seven.

The room, left to right, three minutes before the doors open. Everything you can see was cooked this morning.

  • The left-hand counter stacked with packed containers under price tags, the grocery shelves visible through a window behind
  • Looking down the room to the front door and the lit OPEN sign, past a rack of jarred kering and bags of krupuk
  • The right-hand counter, and above it the wall of framed articles written about the shop

The framed pages on the right-hand wall are the articles below.

06

What has been written

Oldest first, from the shop’s first autumn to Eater LA’s current list of the restaurants worth the drive. Most of these were found framed on the wall of the shop itself.

Eater also filmed a morning in the kitchen, and other people have too. Those are on their own page.

07

And what people say

“This is the most authentic Indonesian food in the San Gabriel Valley.”

Rene Yang · Local Guide · a regular for five years on Google

“The ready-made food reminds me of back home.”

Claudia Ruslan · Local Guide · 244 reviews on Google

4.7 on Google, from 468 reviews. 4.6 on Yelp, from 276 reviews.

Thursday to Sunday, 10:30 am to 4:00 pm. 8518 Valley Blvd, Ste 102, Inside New Valley Plaza. She is usually there.